The joys of composting

Few things will do more for your soil and your garden than composting. Perhaps this summer you considered turning your kitchen scraps and garden debris into "black gold". A compost pile can be of any size, and there are many ways to start one. I have heard of people keeping worm farms in apartment closets to take care of kitchen scraps. Where there is a will, there is a way. (And although many believe that compost smells, when done correctly, compost does not have an unpleasant odor. If it should start to smell, try adding more dry carbon matter - leaves or straw, and turn the pile more frequently.)

First, let’s define what compost is; it's a common name for humus, or the composted remains of organic matter. The process can be controlled and accelerated by providing the proper mix of ingredients; namely, carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, and water. The ideal ratio of carbon to nitrogen is 30:1. (Source: Wikipedia)

Organic matter containing a high carbon content includes dried leaves, sawdust, wood chips, corrugated cardboard, newsprint employing water-based ink. Carbon provides food for bacteria to convert to sugar and to produce heat. Organic matter containing higher nitrogen content include green plant materials (like grass clippings and vegetable kitchen scraps) and vegetarian animal manure (preferably horse manure; chicken and rabbit manure will also do). Nitrogen sources provide protein for the bacteria. Oxygen is provided by turning the mixture. Periodic watering (or rainwater) and turning will do the rest. There are two main composting methods:

1) Active (hot) composting – the most rapid method of composting; this method kills most weed seeds and pathogens.

2) Passive (cold) composting – a less rapid and less effective method; weed seeds are generally left dormant and are not killed off. Less effort is required with this method.



Composting can be as simple as a pile in the corner of the yard or as complex as an elaborate compost bin with thermometer for measuring temperature, turning handle, and a receptacle for making compost tea. Our latest compost heaps have been simple piles that we turned manually. Great results have been obtained in a few months.

Most of your organic household scraps can be added to a compost pile – egg shells, coffee grounds and tea bags (preferably organic!), kitchen scraps, dead houseplants, and dryer lint can be used. Things to avoid include meat, fat, diseased plants, bread and other grains, and invasive weeds that have gone to seed.

A word about vermiculture

Vermicompost (Worm Compost) - the process of using earthworms to break down organic waste to create faster than normal composting. Compared to ordinary soil, the earthworm castings (the material produced from the digestive tracts of worms) contain five times more nitrogen, seven times more phosphorus and 11 times more potassium. They are rich in humic acids and improve the structure of the soil.

The earthworm most often to be used in compost heaps is Brandling Worms (Eisenia foetida), or Redworms (Lumbricus rubellus). This species is only rarely found in soil and is adapted to the special conditions in rotting vegetation, compost and manure piles. Earthworms are available from mail-order suppliers, or from angling shops where they are sold as bait. Small scale vermicomposting is well suited to turn kitchen wastes into high quality soil, even in small spaces. In addition to worms, a healthy vermicomposting system hosts many other organisms such as insects, molds, and bacteria. Though these all play a role in the composting process, the earthworm is the major catalyst for the composting process.

Another word about leaf mold

Leaf mold consists, quite simply, of decomposed leaves. It's great for amending soil, and leaves can be used as mulch, as well. In a compost bin or pile, layer leaves with ammonium nitrate every few inches, and keep the pile wet. It can take from six months to a year for complete decomposition, but it is well worth the wait.! It's particularly beneficial with shade plants, aiding in moisture conservation and weed suppression. A 2-3 inch layer around plants is sufficient.

Why not merely burn all those excess leaves? For one thing, it causes air pollution. Burning releases lare amounts of airborne particles, causing respiratory problems. The smoke contains harmful chemicals, such as carbon monoxide and benzo(a)pyrene (a component in cigarette smoke). For these reasons, leaf burning is banned in many areas. So, why not put those leaves to good use, instead? The benefits are well worth the effort.

You can look for vermiculture equipment on the organic gardening resources page of our website. For more information about composting, you can check out the Compost guide. For a nice selection of compost bins, visit the Organic Composter website.

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